Changing the Game
On a warm September evening in London, The Arch climbing wall, just south of the River Thames, is packed. Scores of people wander around on the thick crash pads, chatting, waiting their turn and offering the odd shout of encouragement to those clinging on to the colourful climbing walls.
Rock climbing was once classified as an "extreme sport". But indoor centres like The Arch, which offer climbing without the need for rocks, are bringing it into the mainstream. The British Mountaineering Council estimates there are at least 248 public climbing walls in Britain, a number that has risen by 30% since 2010. In 2020 the sport's governing bodies are hoping to see an even bigger increase in interest. Along with skateboarding, surfing and karate (空手道), rock climbing will be making its first appearance as an Olympic sport at the summer games in Tokyo.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) is frank about the ambition to appeal to a younger crowd who may be less familiar with longer-standing sports such as athletics and weightlifting. The crowd at the Arch is exactly what the IOC has in mind: mostly young professional letting off steam after work, who see climbing as a more engaging ans sociable alternative to jogging on running machines or pumping iron in a gym. Between them, the new sports will mean another 18 events and 474 athletes at the Tokyo games.
Officially, all four sports are delighted with their new status. But with the exception of karate, all of them have counter-cultural, anti-establishment roots. Some stars have wondered whether accepting the Olympic torch means going against their beliefs. Owen Wright, a famous surfer, has said that surfing is more art form than sport, and therefore not suitable for the games - though he has since gone back on his word, and hopes to represent Australia in Tokyo.
Adam Ondra, a Czech who is one of the world's climbers, said he might steer clear of the games because of the format. The eventual Olympic champion will have to master all the three disciplines including bouldering (climbing without a rope, low to the ground, with a focus on hard, gymnastic moves), lead climbing (roped climbing up a tall wall of increasing difficulty) and speed climbing. Bouldering and lead climbing feature new routes in each stage of a competition, in an effort to imitate the variety of real rock. But speed climbing takes place on a standard, unvarying course. Because of this, said Mr. Ondra, "speed is a kind of artificial discipline ... and this is against the soul of climbing."
Skateboarders, also notably rebellious, can be strikingly young. Sky Brown is set to become Britain's youngest Olympian and has settled down to training. By the time of the Tokyo games, she will have turned 12.
